I am writing this update as Oleta gently swings on anchor on the east coast of Panama: it feels so wonderful to be back on the water! We have learned so much about ourselves and what truly brings us peace and joy – experiences that we would have never known without setting sail. The ups and downs sometimes feel like a roller coaster ride, but it is magical when we drop the hook in a spot like we are now. I am reminded of our time in Trinidad with all the birds. This is the quietest and one of the most serene anchorages we have called home: Permé, Panama.
We had many sleepless nights in Santa Marta as the crazy winds, known as La Brisa Loca, would blow steady at 30-40 knots for random durations of time. One night, we had a 54-knot gust (62 mph) that shifted things on the boat and rattled our nerves. Then, when a strange weather pattern passed, a vast swell arrived, sending waves crashing over the sea wall – breaking the docks and the finger piers. Thankfully, Oleta and our friend’s boat were secure, but it made us want to leave quickly. We were provisioned and ready to go but needed a break in the wind to move to Panama. The World ARC had just passed through and had huge seas and big winds as they made their way to the San Blas islands.
With a small weather window, we left the marina a bit frazzled, but as soon as we got the sails set, we already felt a change: wide open spaces and just us! We celebrated my birthday at a beautiful anchorage by Tintipan, a small private island off the coast of Colombia. We could feel our bodies decompressing from all the sights and sounds of Santa Marta. Eric somehow managed to have the BEST birthday cake delivered to Oleta from the island of Islote — the most populated island in the world per square mile. The cake was beautifully decorated, and it tasted so good!
Since we felt unsure of leaving the boat unattended with the weather in the marina, we didn’t travel to the interior of Colombia as we had initially planned. We did have a wonderful time in Santa Marta. Here are a couple of highlights:
A Crazy Colombian Christmas
We booked a small, affordable hotel for a few days to have some reprieve from the winds. Hot and tired, we arrived on December 16th to Hotel Santa Sophia del Mar. In Colombia, this day is known as Día de las Velitas, Day of the Little Candles. It was the first day of the Novenas, the Catholic prayers that lead up to the birth of Baby Jesus. When we returned from dinner, the family invited us to sit with them as they began the tradition of lighting candles and reading through the prayers, followed by each person saying what they were grateful for – a process that is repeated until Christmas Eve. Afterward, we chatted, and Eric and I told them of our sailing adventures, and they told us their story.
They invited us to spend Christmas with them. We ended up spending the entire week prior at the hotel due to the loud celebrations that occur in Santa Marta during Christmastime. Other family members flew in from Medellín, so the hotel was practically full! It was a week filled with drinking, laughter, prayers, and little sleep. Christmas Eve was so different from what we have experienced before since most Colombian families celebrate everything on that day and rest on the 25th. The festivities started around 8 pm when other guests arrived, and we participated in the final Novena. Eric even said in Spanish what he was grateful for and got a giant round of applause! We finally ate dinner around 9:30 pm and then started the present exchange and gifts for the kids until we heard firecrackers signaling that Papa Noel (or the Baby Jesus, depending on the area of Colombia) had arrived up on the terrace – leaving a big gift for each of the children. It was a fantastic experience that was crazy, exhausting, and fun!
A Visitor
Our friend from Texas visited us for a week, and we enjoyed exploring with her. Our first adventure took us to Tayrona Park and Cabo San Juan. It was a long day of hiking through the jungle and on beaches to experience the northern coast. We could hear the howler monkeys and finally saw a Capuchin monkey as we were heading back on the trail. Our second excursion started bright and early at 6 am when Alfredo, our driver for the day, picked us up in his 4×4 and took us to Minca to see the Pozo Azul waterfalls, La Victoria coffee farm, and the Marinka waterfalls. All the spots were great, and the hikes on this day were easy and much cooler since we were up in the Sierra Nevada. We took a bumpy ride, full of laughter, up to a hostel for lunch, and on the way, we were invited to a cup of coffee by a Chilean who owns a small coffee farm. He was so friendly, and we enjoyed the conversation on his patio with a savory cup of coffee that was simply perfect.
Santa Marta
This little city has a beautiful ambiance; from street art to food, there’s a bit of everything – even a pet tortoise at Uhma and gold-covered sushi!
Taganga, Colombia
Best fish fry and a street dance party with our friends Manny and Laura! The family that hosted us, gave us some handmade hats, so Eric gave the man his Bequia cap.
One night, when the winds were calm in Santa Marta, Eric and I sat on the bow, talking, and heard a flock of birds approaching. It was dark, but we could make out the pink and black coloring of about eight flamingos flying overhead!
BEST fruit ice cream in the WORLD, Curuba: only grown in Colombia; Us on our 23rd Anniversary
So, until the next random update, I hope everyone has a full-filled day!
Check out our Facebook & Instagram pages for more photos and updates!
Other ways to contact us: WhatsApp (same numbers) or Email – we dropped our phone plans and sometimes miss text messages.
Extra Photo Galleries!
Random photos from Santa Marta, Minca, & Palomino
Cheers!
Soulful Mermaid 
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