It’s been nine months since our last update. Yes, the time has flown by, but I know where it has gone! We have meandered along the Windward Islands, capturing stories and adventures all the way down to Trinidad and Tobago, back up to Dominica, through Martinique, and finally, back to St. Vincent and the Grenadines. During this time, we refitted some major systems and participated in one of the most epic parties in the world – Trinidad’s Carnival. There have been splendid passages where the Milky Way shines brightly, and pods of dolphins have guided Oleta to her next destination. We’ve met new friends and reconnected with old ones. When we sit and reflect on all that we have done in 2023, what we have experienced is incredible. Living on a sailboat is both exhilarating and terrifying, but the blissful moments always balance out the challenging ones. Here are some of my favorite memories…

We decided on a second season in the East Carib to take care of some boat projects that could be harder to complete elsewhere. There are several sites to work on boats down the island chain, each with pros and cons. After several conversations, research, and the gut feeling we were moving in the right direction, the stars aligned and pointed toward Trinidad & Tobago. 

“What?!? Are you sure? Is it safe – I’ve heard it is dangerous? What about the pirates from Venezuela? How good are the boatyards? I’ve heard it’s expensive. I haven’t been there, but I have heard…”

While I can’t speak directly about the services in other places, I knew we had solid information and contacts who had been to Trinidad and said, yes – Come! We could complete the projects and have the chance to go to Trinidad’s first complete Carnival since COVID. In early February, we set our plan into motion by sailing 80 nautical miles from the south coast of Grenada to the port in Chaguaramas. I would be lying if I said I wasn’t anxious on the crossing as we neared the oil rig platforms where pirates had waited to rob passing vessels in previous years. As the northeast wind kept Oleta fast through the confused currents and sloppy swell, there was a heightened sense of awareness as we glided through the obsidian-colored waves. We hand-steered the entire passage since one of the things we needed to fix was the autopilot. I am grateful for the practice, but steering this way is fatiguing! Yet, the sail was glorious, and we had to slow our approach because we didn’t want to enter the cut in the dark morning hours. Finally, as daylight softened the skyline, the surrounding lush hills and mountains came into view with a sky full of birds. 

Over the first few weeks, we got situated and started some projects, but Carnival was approaching quickly, which was the main reason we picked T&T to do our boat work (don’t tell Eric)! We went to several events that dazzled our senses and filled the night hours with beautiful Soca music. Our favorite event was J’ouvert: this party begins in the early hours of the Monday before Lent. It is filled with music, paint, mud, and more! You can participate by yourself, but the best way to enjoy J’ouvert is to join a band, which we did. Then you get to walk with that band and the flatbed trucks that travel with the group carrying moving DJs, bars, bathrooms, and loads of paint and powder. With the first drink in hand at 3:30 in the morning, we put on some baby oil – to help remove whatever we would be covered in and squished into a sea of yellow shirts with the Jum-Beez band. Then we danced, drank, and laughed all the way down ‘da Road until the sun rose over Port of Spain. 

After recovering from the festivities, we got serious about the boat projects. We installed new steering, a beefier autopilot – named Hanz Solo, a bottom job, and other undertakings, but who wants to talk about boat work! It was then time to test all the new systems on a shake-down cruise. We figured a 280-nautical-mile venture to Dominica would be a fun way to inspect the work, and there were plenty of bailout options if we had any issues. The passage was fantastic, and besides some water in our front hatch, all the systems were working!

Dominica, an island full of nature and chill vibes, is one of our favorites in the Caribbean. Last season, we explored the island’s south part, and this year, we had the chance to hang out with Martin, a friend of the SailVenture & Windward crew, to see the north side. We ate juicy mangoes, warm Johnny cakes, and picked fresh herbs from the side of the road. We enjoyed our two-week stay, and while we wanted to stay longer, the change in weather pushed us to head further south – back to Martinique. 

Last year, when we sailed to this French island, we didn’t stay too long before hunkering down in Bequia for hurricane season, so this time, we extended it. Trois Ilets was one of our new favorite spots, along with Anse Dufour – where we did some fantastic free-diving. On our way to St. Anne, we got caught in a short but nasty squall with gusts in the 40s and sheets of rain that I could not see through as I managed the helm, and Eric put another reef in our in-boom mainsail. It was an adrenaline-fueled time, but we were so happy with the growth in our skills and communication.

Then, we nestled into the Le Marin Bay, which, until you have anchored there, you may not be comfortable being that close to other boats. But it is the best spot to quickly get to all stores that stock affordable meats, cheeses, and wines – lots of wine. We did a much better job at provisioning for this season, which makes a difference since the smaller islands can be more expensive. We thought we might stay longer since the weather and bay were so good, but Tropical Storm Bret started to kick up and was inching closer to our area, so we made our way to Bequia. Ironically, we had the worst experience during the storm, where a moored catamaran in front of us dragged dangerously close to Oleta. Finally, the couple on board realized they were dragging and moved their boat. It was a frightening experience that we learned to always trust our gut and move even if we were there first. We were thankful the outcome turned out as it did.

One of the best parts of being back in Bequia was reuniting with Laurie!!! We spent as much time together as possible – enjoying all the moments before The Renegade Mermaid headed further south, and Oleta stayed in the Grenadines. To change up the scenery, Eric and I sailed to Saline Bay in Mayreau and stayed for two weeks. I cannot rave enough about this area! During the off-season, the beach is basically deserted; one can dance, sing, and ponder it all to themselves. I swam or paddled to the shore daily. We even got to put our free-diving skills to the test with a wreck that’s located just outside of the bay. 

As always, our life is ruled by the weather, and it was turning again, so we popped back up to Bequia for about a month or so. There is magic around this place that will always stay in my heart, but we noticed a new tug. A nudge to move on and to continue a bit further from the east to the west. As the weather aligned with this new feeling, we knew it was time to leave Bequia, knowing it would be a long while before we were in this area again. So, we prepared Oleta and ourselves for our most extended passage since we left Kemah in December 2020 and set our sights on Curaçao, an island in the ABCs, and eventually onto Colombia.

Cheers!